Last week I went out to San Juan Copala, a small (very small) town in the Triqui region of western Oaxaca. I caught a suburban out of Oaxaca around 6am on Wednesday morning and took a 3 hour ride (mas o menos) to Tlaxiaco a town in the Mixteca region of western Oaxaca. Once there I met a fellow researcher and after a quick breakfast in the market we hopped on another van for a ride on some very twisty mountain roads. After about an hour we jumped off of this van and hopped in a small truck for the ride to San Juan Copala. On the drive there we passed this sign advertising their annual fiesta. After some confusion about where we might stay that night we finally dropped our things off in the municipal president's office and began wandering around the small town. San Juan Copala recently declared itself an autonomous municipality (they are still figuring out what this means to them apparently) and since this declaration, according to the researcher I was with, the violence in the t...